Van Cleef & Arpels’ Legend of Diamonds – Variations of white diamonds

The collectionit is rooms take us through six decades glorious fashions.

Without a doubt, diamonds are in the spotlight at Van Cleef & Arpels this year – more than ever, as the French house dedicated not one, but two major high jewelry collections to the king of precious stones. Go down in history with Legend of Diamonds, his latest work unveiled in two distinct chapters, which demonstrates the house’s deep veneration for stone and its know-how in the realization of exceptional creations.

The first salvo debuted at Parisian Haute Couture WeekPresenting jewelry lovers everywhere a stunning 910 carat rough diamond named the Lesotho Legend – a one-of-a-kind diamond that is perfect in every way: D-color, beautiful crystallization, and chemically pure with incredible optical clarity.

Van Cleef & Arpels has extracted 67 spectacular diamonds of various sizes and carats to produce 25 unique pieces of high jewelry that make up Legend of Diamonds – 25 Mystery Set Jewels. Van Cleef & Arpels’ second act continues in Legend of Diamonds – White Diamond Variations, where 82 phenomenal high jewelry creations will take your breath away as they transport you through decades past.

Diamond Legacy

Beginning with the Art Deco period of the 1920s, the house traces the evolution of this iconic style, which actually started on a more naturalistic path before gradually embracing geometric influences. This stylistic progression is reflected in the Floraison de Diamants white gold bracelet, whose sumptuous volumes are inspired by Van Cleef & Arpels bandeau bracelets from the 1920s.

Roaring Twenties necklace in white and pink gold with diamonds and Chrysler earrings in white gold with diamonds

Use of a variety of detailing and tuning techniques – snow, rail, claws, scalloped and closed, Van Cleef & Arpels endowed the piece with a layering of abstract and geometric shapes that would soon give rise to the graphic aesthetic so deeply emblematic of the Art Deco style.

True to the later definition of Art Deco, the Roaring Twenties transformable sautoir embraces symmetrical lines and strict geometric patterns, while cradling at its heart a stunning 10.32-carat DIF Type 2A pear-cut diamond.

roaring twenties necklace

The white and pink gold creation can be converted from a lariat necklace into three short necklaces, three different long necklaces or two bracelets. The Art Deco theme continues in the fabulously openwork white gold Chrysler and Dear Liz earrings, which are inspired by a 1920s Bow brooch once owned by actress Elizabeth Taylor, whose unquenchable love for jewelry was known to everyone.

Then came the 1930s, when Van Cleef & Arpels exhibited its legendary Medici necklace at the International Exhibition of Arts and Techniques in Paris. Heavily influenced by the fashion world, the necklace evoked a necklace crafted in ribbons using baguette, pear and brilliant cut diamonds.

His modern reincarnation appears in Legend of Diamonds – White Diamond Variations as the Waves sparkling necklace, which is inspired by the reticella necklace, a popular needle lace fashion accessory worn by women during the Renaissance. With diamonds flowing in sparkling concave waves, it looks like clear, limpid ocean water rising towards the hollow of the neck.

New Bean Clip

The austerity of the 1940s saw jewelers of the time favor goldsmithing and craftsmanship over diamonds. Pieces such as the Boogie-woogie bracelet in rose gold and the New Haricot clip in white and rose gold were designed to spark joy and pleasure.

New white and pink gold Haricot diamond clip, Boogie-woogie bracelet and Spontini pink gold diamond ring

Because they are such a recognizable creation from the house, vintage bean tongs are particularly collectable today. One of the earliest admirers of this style of jewelry was Jacqueline Kennedy, who was often seen wearing it.

Envol de Diamants necklace in white gold and diamonds

Another of Van Cleef & Arpels’ most recognizable creations is the Envol de Diamants necklace in white gold. Its dynamic lines and substantial weight make it a strong and comfortable piece to wear. Some vintage Envol necklaces feature a star or airplane motif, the latter symbol of the fledgling airline industry in the 1950s – and a tribute to French pilot Jacqueline Auriol, who was the first European woman to fly over the wall sound.

Fabulous Fifties necklace in white gold with a 10.06 carat emerald cut diamond and diamonds

Likewise, the Fabulous Fifties necklace pays homage to the glamor of that decade, with radiating lines evoking rivers of diamonds on a fully articulated openwork structure in white gold. Center stage is a 10.06-carat emerald-cut DIF Type 2A diamond cut to the proportions of a tennis court, giving the stone a perfectly harmonious length-to-width ratio.

retro redux

Then came the 60s, a time that saw the rise of the hippie movement and where everyday luxury reigned as a buzzword. Van Cleef & Arpels toasts to her beloved La Boutique collection, which although launched in 1954, truly came of age in the 1960s. Capturing this playful aesthetic, the Fée Naïca clip features a charming little fairy sitting on rocks.

Crafted with the rare technique of wax casting, the stunning three-dimensionality of this white and yellow gold jewellery, the alternating textures of smooth, hammered and wrinkled surfaces deliver all the visual drama one would expect from a creation of high jewelry Van Cleef & Arpels.

Rubens Between the Fingers ring in white gold and diamonds New

The house’s designs reached ever greater heights in the 1970s, taking full advantage of the decade maximalist momentum. Pieces created during this period had often been deeply emotive, with powerful volumes and vibrant colors. White diamonds were used primarily for emphasis, as jewelers used creative license with precious and semi-precious materials of all kinds. Embracing this “more is more” spirit, the Entre les Doigts rings by Van Cleef & Arpels have brought together two distinct motifs in a single jewel. The house is honoring this tradition today with the New Rubens Entre les Doigts ring in white gold, composed of a stylized leaf reminiscent of an Indian-inspired paisley pattern alongside a 3.08-carat DVVS1 Type 2A emerald-cut diamond. .

The stellar collection concludes with a trip to the 80s, when fine jewelry made a dramatic comeback into contemporary lifestyles, pushing the prices and value of exceptional stones to an all-time high. The fashion conventions of this era shifted from wearing many smaller pieces to fewer but larger designs to make a bold statement. This trend has continued into the 21st century, and the one that Van Cleef & Arpels gladly celebrates in Legend of Diamonds – Variations of the White Diamond.

Sarah C. Figueiredo