Fendi’s first fine jewelry features yellow diamonds and ‘hidden’ logos – WWD
Fendi – and logomania – have arrived in the rarefied world of fine jewelry.
Employing more than 1,000 diamonds, Delfina Delettrez Fendi, Artistic Director of Jewelry at Fendi, created a three-piece set with cascading white stones interspersed with yellow baguettes arranged in must-see F formations, a la ” Where’s Waldo?”
“I wanted to use the logo in a subtle way, almost like a hidden code,” Delettrez Fendi said in an interview Wednesday in Paris. “For me, the F’s are almost my family crest.”
Karl Lagerfeld, who designed Fendi’s furs and ready-to-wear for more than 50 years before his death in 2019, created the inverted FF monogram in 1965. It appeared mainly on leather goods, but also on clothing and baggage.
Yellow, the color of Fendi packaging, was another key jewelry ingredient, and Delettrez Fendi spent nearly a year looking for a set of exceptional fancy diamonds with a subtle orange tint to suggest the color of a sunset. in Rome.
“I really wanted to work with the concept of purity and lightness, and I wanted the pieces to be meaningful and evocative,” the designer explained. “I thought there was nothing more evocative than diamond, and there is nothing more meaningful at Fendi than yellow.”
There are four central stones, a nod to the fact that Delettrez Fendi, daughter of Silvia Venturini Fendi, artistic director of the accessories collections and man of the Roman house, is part of the fourth generation of the founding family.
Named “Flavus” after the ancient Roman term for yellow, the jewelry set debuted during the opening look of Fendi’s Fall 2022 haute collection show by Kim Jones, artistic director of couture collections and of women’s clothing since 2020.
The cascade of stones on the earrings and necklace is meant to evoke a Roman fountain and a nod to the alluvial supply of stones.
“Movement is important; comfort is fundamental,” Delettrez Fendi said. “Subtle, whispered luxury is what attracts me, and also what our clients are able to relate to.”
Its cocktail ring design is static, but has the appearance of a stack of several rings.
Delettrez Fendi did not call his first high jewelry effort a teaser and hinted that future designs would tie into the high fashion collections.
“This is just the beginning of a long, long story,” he said. “Sewing is a platform for freedom of expression.”
The high jewelry project lasted more than a year. A big challenge was finding stones with the right color intensity and shape for an emerald cut.
She noted that the diamonds are “particularly young”, only around 900 million years old, compared to the usual 3-4 billion years. “It’s so fascinating,” she commented, briefly explaining how the nitrogen content of stones determines their age.
The three pieces, each in their own mini trunk, will be sold separately or as a set, with prices ranging from around 350,000 euros to 1.2 million euros. The set claims a total of 7.54 carats.
Delettrez Fendi cited strong consumer response to his fashion jewelry at Fendi, including his designs for Jones’ first three couture collections, using such unusual materials as Murano glass and Carrera marble.
Ear cuffs that wrap around the entire ear area have proven popular. “Even though they are quite tall, they feel very comfortable and very present. They dress you up a lot,” she said.
Fendi plans collaboration with Marc Jacobs, sources say
All about the Fendace collaboration
Five high jewelry must-haves during Paris Couture Week